The Raw Edge

The initial clean edge that is formed from cutting out your pattern pieces won’t last forever. Soon, the threads of the fabric will start to loosen and before you know it, you have a full on fray happening. There are ways to prevent fabric fraying!

Even though I love my serger and use it constantly in the studio, I still finish plenty of edges the old fashioned way. When sewing something delicate, working on quick alterations, or when I am away from my machine, I use effective methods that don’t require the serger and still produce clean, durable results.

Why Bother Finishing Raw Edges?

Sometimes the edges of fabric are kept raw as a style choice. Other times, you will want a clean look. By finishing the edges of a garment you will prevent fraying and unraveling, especially for those pieces that get washed frequently. Clothing with finished edges has stronger, longer-lasting seams and looks more professional on the inside even if no one else sees it. Finished edges produce better drape and comfort in your garment with no frayed bits to cause irritation. Let’s look at some ways to prevent fabric fraying.

Methods for Edges

• Zigzag stitch: A great option for everyday seam finishing. Widest zigzag close to the edge.
• French Seams: Enclosed seam that hides the raw edge completely. This is ideal for lightweight fabrics and unlined garments. French Seams
• Bias Binding: Single or double fold bias tape is a clean, decorative option that also provides some stabilization.
• Hong Kong Finish: Applying bias binding so it only shows on the inside. This is beautiful on unlined jackets, coats, or high-end pieces.
• Pinking Shears: If you don’t have access to a machine, this is a quick and surprisingly effective way to prevent fraying on tightly woven fabrics.
• Whipstitch: Quiet and perfect for small areas, repairs, or places where you want zero bulk.

How to Choose the Right Finishing Technique

• Match the method to the fabric and the garment’s expected wear/washing.
• Test on scrap fabric first.
• Check seam allowance considerations. Some methods use more fabric than others.
• Decide if combining methods is a good option (pinking then zigzag)

Whether using a machine or sewing by hand, these finishes make even simple garments look more polished. What is your go-to finish for those raw edges?